What Is PVD Gold Plating, and Is It Better Than Regular Plating?

"Gold-plated" covers a huge range of quality. At one end is jewellery that turns brown after a week at the beach. At the other is plating that survives daily swims, gym sessions and years of wear. The biggest difference usually comes down to two things: the metal underneath, and how the gold was applied. That second part is where PVD comes in.

What PVD stands for

PVD stands for physical vapour deposition. It's a plating method carried out in a vacuum chamber. The coating material is vaporised, then deposited onto the jewellery a layer at a time, forming a thin, dense film that bonds tightly to the surface of the metal.

The same process is used to finish watch cases, premium tapware and cutting tools, which tells you what it's designed for: surfaces that get handled, knocked and washed every day.

How it differs from traditional electroplating

Most cheaper gold-plated jewellery is electroplated. The piece is dipped into a chemical bath and an electric current deposits a layer of gold onto it, usually over brass or copper. It's quick and inexpensive, and it can look great on day one.

The problem is durability. Electroplated layers are often very thin, and they sit on a base metal that reacts with sweat, salt water and air. Once the gold wears through, the base metal oxidises. That's when you see dull patches, brown spots or a green mark on your finger.

PVD coatings are typically harder and more tightly bonded, so they resist scratching, fading and wear far better. When the base metal is stainless steel, there's also nothing underneath waiting to tarnish.

Is PVD gold real gold?

It can be. PVD is a method, not a material, so what matters is what's being deposited. Some brands use PVD to apply a gold-coloured coating that contains no gold at all. At Golden Hour, the plating is genuine 18k gold applied by PVD over 316L stainless steel. When you're shopping, look for both details: the karat of the gold and the base metal.

Does PVD plating last forever?

No plating lasts forever, and anyone who says otherwise is overselling. Pieces that take constant friction, like rings on a hand that grips weights every day, will show wear sooner than earrings or necklaces. With PVD over stainless steel you can expect years of everyday wear rather than weeks. Our guide to how long gold-plated jewellery lasts goes into more detail.

What PVD means in real life

• Swim in it. Salt water and chlorine won't strip it the way they strip cheap plating.
• Sweat in it. Gym sessions, humid summers and long days on your feet.
• Shower in it. No more taking everything off every night.
• Stack it. Harder surfaces handle rings rubbing against each other far better.

How to check before you buy

Ask three questions. What is the base metal? What karat is the gold? How was it applied? If a brand can't tell you, assume it's electroplated brass. Then check for a warranty. A brand that's confident in its plating will back it.

Every Golden Hour piece is 18k gold PVD-plated over 316L stainless steel, waterproof, tarnish-resistant and hypoallergenic, and backed by our two-year guarantee. Shop the collection, or start with something built for hard wear, like the Heatwave Ring.

Related reading

• Gold-Plated vs Gold-Filled vs Solid Gold: What's the Real Difference
• Can You Shower and Swim in Gold-Plated Jewellery?
• How to Stop Gold-Plated Jewellery From Tarnishing

Beach days. Golden nights.